When Tutima returned after a long Cold war hiatus to its birthplace in the German watchmaking town of Glashütte, in the state of Saxony, it also began re-establishing itself as a maker of elegant, luxurious timepieces, in precious metal cases with lavishly decorated in-house calibers, after years of being known primarily as a purveyor of classically styled pilots’ watches with outsourced movements. The Patria collection began in grand style, with the unveiling of the Hommage Minute Repeater, the first minute repeater built entirely in Glashütte, in 2011, and has since grown to include a two-hander with small seconds, a model with a power reserve display, and the watch I had a chance to wear recently, the Tutima Patria Dual Time.
“Success has many fathers,” the old saying goes, “while failure is an orphan.” The origins of this aphorism are unclear, but the Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde, which took home the prize for Best Travel Time Watch at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), can certainly be deemed a success, and the “many fathers” concept is a truism when one considers how the timepiece came to be, and the diverse artisans involved. In this feature from our August 2019 issue, we trace the origins of the watch through each of the five workshops within the Parmigiani Manufacture.
Tudor adds world-time functionality to the Black Bay with new manufacture Caliber MT5652. Not only does the GMT version run more accurately than many other chronometer-tested watches, it boasts a 70-hour power reserve and the time displays can be set in several different ways.
Acting globally and traveling around the world are no longer the exclusive privilege of pilots, top executives and other jet-setting professionals. A GMT function, which lets a watch’s wearer read the time in a second time zone, not only fits well in our globalized age, it’s also a good fit for the Tudor Black Bay. In the spirit of Rolex’s founder Hans Wilsdorf, who established Montres Tudor SA in 1946 as a high-quality but less costly alternative to Rolex, the Black Bay GMT, our test watch, preserves an appealing price-performance ratio while simultaneously encasing the brand’s own manufacture caliber. The Black Bay GMT not only has a time-zone function that’s well suited for everyday use, the model also reaffirms Tudor’s corporate strategy of achieving independence and a distinctive identity for the brand. Tudor relied on movements made by other Swiss manufacturers from its founding until 2015, when Calibers MT5612 and MT5621 became the first Tudor movements encased inside the brand’s watches. After chronograph Caliber MT5813, which was created in cooperation with Breitling, Caliber MT5652 now follows suit as a second manufacture movement with an additional complication.
Frederique Constant introduced a GMT timepiece with an in-house movement to its Classics dress-watch collection in 2011. Now the Geneva-based, Citizen Group-owned affordable luxury brand adds this travel-friendly complication to its nautically sporty Yacht Timer series in a new model with two distinct executions.
The 42-mm case of the Frederique Constant Yacht Timer GMT is made of stainless steel with a rose-gold plating. Under its convex sapphire crystal is a guilloche dial in either silvery white or anthracite gray, with rose-gold plated hands and hour indices treated with Super-LumiNova and a date window at 3 o’clock. Bordering the inner edge of those markers is a 24-hour GMT ring, with a red-tipped central hand to indicate the hour in a second time zone. The user-friendly design of this scale uses black for the nighttime hours between 6:00 PM and 6:00 AM, and white or light gray for the remaining daylight hours. The date is paired with the local time displayed by the main hour and minute hands.
The Aquis GMT Date doesn’t represent a venture into previously unexplored terrain for Oris because the popular independent brand from Hölstein, Switzerland, has previous experience with time-zone watches. The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer is a pilots’ watch with innovative time-zone setting via the bezel. The local time advances in single-hour increments when you turn the bezel clockwise and retreats in hourly steps when you turn the calibrated ring counterclockwise; the date moves correspondingly backward or forward whenever the reset hour hand passes midnight. With the Big Crown ProPilot Caliber 114, Oris has even equipped Caliber 114, which was developed in-house, with a second time zone via a 24-hour scale, 10 days of power autonomy, and a 240-degree power-reserve display.
While 2019 is undoubtedly the Year of the Submersible at Panerai, as evidenced by the slew of new, revamped models in the military-masculine dive watch series released at SIHH earlier this year (and more recently), the Florentine watch maison has not neglected its more elegant Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Launched in 2016 as the thinned-down extension of the flagship Luminor series, aimed at consumers seeking a watch with Panerai’s hallmark size and boldness but slim enough to slide easily under a shirt cuff, Luminor Due continues to add to its ranks with new colorways and complications. Here are the latest six references just announced by Panerai.