Hitting the Road: A Test of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is designed to be the ideal travelers’ companion. Can this new model – inspired by lesser-known Patek Philippe pilot watches – meet the claim? We explore the watch in this in-depth test from our October 2019 issue. Original photos are by Patrick Mokesch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is now available in rose gold.

Patek Philippe has reinvented an aspect of itself with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. When the Geneva-based company introduced the first model in white gold in 2015, it was met with great excitement. As a unique specimen that differs from the highly desirable sporty models in its Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek is known primarily for its classical designs. Now a traditional brand like Patek Philippe can find inspiration from its own rich history without creating something entirely new. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time traces its origins from a lesser-known part of the company’s history – its own pilots’ watches. The Ref. 5524R recalls the design of vintage Patek Philippe pilots’ watches from the 1930s with its bold luminescent numerals and hands. Continue reading

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with Black Lacquer Dial

Vacheron Constantin has added a new variation on its Overseas Dual Time watch, which debuted in gold and steel with silver and blue dial options in 2018. The new men’s model is distinguished by an enticing black lacquered dial and features all the elements Vacheron introduced into the Overseas collection when it redesigned it in 2016: a six-sided bezel inspired by Vacheron’s Maltese cross emblem; an in-house-made, mechanical self-winding movement with a 22k gold rotor embellished with a wind rose; and a patented easy-adjust/easy-replace strap and bracelet system. Continue reading

Waves of Gray: Frederique Constant Expands the Palette of its Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant introduced the first version of its impressively user-friendly (and reasonably priced) Classic Worldtimer Manufacture in 2012 and has expanded its repertoire of dial colors in the years since, including the brown and green colorways of recent years. This year, the Geneva-based brand adds a gray-tinted version of its etched world map dial while still offering the same in-house-designed caliber and case material options of previous models.

Frederique Constant Classic_Worldtimer Manufacture - RG - lifestyle

Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture in rose-gold-plated steel (Ref. FC-718DGWM4H4) Continue reading

Hands On: Tutima Patria Dual Time Ref. 6601-02

When Tutima returned after a long Cold war hiatus to its birthplace in the German watchmaking town of Glashütte, in the state of Saxony, it also began re-establishing itself as a maker of elegant, luxurious timepieces, in precious metal cases with lavishly decorated in-house calibers, after years of being known primarily as a purveyor of classically styled pilots’ watches with outsourced movements. The Patria collection began in grand style, with the unveiling of the Hommage Minute Repeater, the first minute repeater built entirely in Glashütte, in 2011, and has since grown to include a two-hander with small seconds, a model with a power reserve display, and the watch I had a chance to wear recently, the Tutima Patria Dual Time. Continue reading

Horological Homecoming: Tracing the Creation of the Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde

“Success has many fathers,” the old saying goes, “while failure is an orphan.” The origins of this aphorism are unclear, but the Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde, which took home the prize for Best Travel Time Watch at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), can certainly be deemed a success, and the “many fathers” concept is a truism when one considers how the timepiece came to be, and the diverse artisans involved. In this feature from our August 2019 issue, we trace the origins of the watch through each of the five workshops within the Parmigiani Manufacture. Continue reading

Well Traveled Companion: Reviewing the Tudor Black Bay GMT

Tudor adds world-time functionality to the Black Bay with new manufacture Caliber MT5652. Not only does the GMT version run more accurately than many other chronometer-tested watches, it boasts a 70-hour power reserve and the time displays can be set in several different ways.

Tudor Black Bay GMT front

The Tudor Black Bay GMT offers a user-friendly second-time-zone function at an appealing price point.

Acting globally and traveling around the world are no longer the exclusive privilege of pilots, top executives and other jet-setting professionals. A GMT function, which lets a watch’s wearer read the time in a second time zone, not only fits well in our globalized age, it’s also a good fit for the Tudor Black Bay. In the spirit of Rolex’s founder Hans Wilsdorf, who established Montres Tudor SA in 1946 as a high-quality but less costly alternative to Rolex, the Black Bay GMT, our test watch, preserves an appealing price-performance ratio while simultaneously encasing the brand’s own manufacture caliber. The Black Bay GMT not only has a time-zone function that’s well suited for everyday use, the model also reaffirms Tudor’s corporate strategy of achieving independence and a distinctive identity for the brand. Tudor relied on movements made by other Swiss manufacturers from its founding until 2015, when Calibers MT5612 and MT5621 became the first Tudor movements encased inside the brand’s watches. After chronograph Caliber MT5813, which was created in cooperation with Breitling, Caliber MT5652 now follows suit as a second manufacture movement with an additional complication. Continue reading