Pedals in the Metal: RGM Introduces Model 500-GMT-RS Limited Edition Richard Sachs

Last Monday, Pennsylvania-based watch manufacturer RGM released the Model 500-GM-RS, a new sports watch released in partnership with bicycle frame builder Richard Sachs. This new model is the second watch to result from the collaboration between Sachs and RGM founder Roland Murphy — like the first one, a limited-edition, bespoke timepiece that speaks to both brands’ shared love for traditional styles, handcrafted workmanship, and functional art.

RGM Richard Sachs LE - front

 

The new 500-GMT-RS uses a 41-mm steel case that rises 11.3-mm off the wrist. The case uses polished finishing throughout, with the sides using a ribbed design reminiscent of the tubbing used in bicycle frames, while the crown is a complement to the style in its sturdy appearance. Surrounding the face is the watch’s bidirectional GMT bezel, marking the first time RGM has used this function on one of its watches; the bezel features engraved Arabic numerals for each of the even-numbered hour positions, and simple dots for the odd-numbered hours, both of which are filled with ceramic. Continue reading

From Russia With “Levels”: Alexander Shorokhoff’s Latest Artistically Inspired Dual-Time Watch

Moscow-born independent watchmaker Alexander Shorokhoff founded his eponymous watch brand in Bavaria in 2003, and since then has found a niche with collectors with his distinctively colorful, artistically avant-garde timepieces, many inspired by Russian abstractionist painters. Shorokhoff’s newest eye-popping timepiece is a dual-time-zone model called “Levels” — named for its multi-level dial and constructed to display home time and local time on different planes.

Alexander Shorokhoff Levels - Blue Dial - front-back

Alexander Shorokhoff’s “Levels” is made in Germany by a Russian craftsman, using Swiss mechanical movements. Continue reading

Hitting the Road: A Test of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is designed to be the ideal travelers’ companion. Can this new model – inspired by lesser-known Patek Philippe pilot watches – meet the claim? We explore the watch in this in-depth test from our October 2019 issue. Original photos are by Patrick Mokesch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is now available in rose gold.

Patek Philippe has reinvented an aspect of itself with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. When the Geneva-based company introduced the first model in white gold in 2015, it was met with great excitement. As a unique specimen that differs from the highly desirable sporty models in its Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek is known primarily for its classical designs. Now a traditional brand like Patek Philippe can find inspiration from its own rich history without creating something entirely new. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time traces its origins from a lesser-known part of the company’s history – its own pilots’ watches. The Ref. 5524R recalls the design of vintage Patek Philippe pilots’ watches from the 1930s with its bold luminescent numerals and hands. Continue reading

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with Black Lacquer Dial

Vacheron Constantin has added a new variation on its Overseas Dual Time watch, which debuted in gold and steel with silver and blue dial options in 2018. The new men’s model is distinguished by an enticing black lacquered dial and features all the elements Vacheron introduced into the Overseas collection when it redesigned it in 2016: a six-sided bezel inspired by Vacheron’s Maltese cross emblem; an in-house-made, mechanical self-winding movement with a 22k gold rotor embellished with a wind rose; and a patented easy-adjust/easy-replace strap and bracelet system. Continue reading

Waves of Gray: Frederique Constant Expands the Palette of its Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant introduced the first version of its impressively user-friendly (and reasonably priced) Classic Worldtimer Manufacture in 2012 and has expanded its repertoire of dial colors in the years since, including the brown and green colorways of recent years. This year, the Geneva-based brand adds a gray-tinted version of its etched world map dial while still offering the same in-house-designed caliber and case material options of previous models.

Frederique Constant Classic_Worldtimer Manufacture - RG - lifestyle

Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture in rose-gold-plated steel (Ref. FC-718DGWM4H4) Continue reading

Hands On: Tutima Patria Dual Time Ref. 6601-02

When Tutima returned after a long Cold war hiatus to its birthplace in the German watchmaking town of Glashütte, in the state of Saxony, it also began re-establishing itself as a maker of elegant, luxurious timepieces, in precious metal cases with lavishly decorated in-house calibers, after years of being known primarily as a purveyor of classically styled pilots’ watches with outsourced movements. The Patria collection began in grand style, with the unveiling of the Hommage Minute Repeater, the first minute repeater built entirely in Glashütte, in 2011, and has since grown to include a two-hander with small seconds, a model with a power reserve display, and the watch I had a chance to wear recently, the Tutima Patria Dual Time. Continue reading